Why MOCKaSIN?

(I apologize that none of the web addresses listed in this blog are functioning links, please forgive me. The blogger app I am using would not activate them. Hopefully Google will remedy this issue quickly).

Mockingbird Moccasin Mirage

Collage images found using Google

I am a person who believes in synchronicity. That means everything is connected. There is no such thing as coincidence because that occurrence or lack there of is synchronicity. Also, we all manifest what we believe and think that we know. So, this post I am really going to write out what I believe I know specifically because I see a lot of connecting factors.

The truth behind these shoes is a lot to take in and process. My boots are my second round at making shoes.

My first pair of shoes have miss-matched tops and hand painted hummingbirds. They are copied recycled Nike Valenka shoes June 20, 2012

My art is influenced by my childhood experiences. The biggest single decision I made that rules my entire life is that I must make my own way. This making involves every facet of life and is literal, and metaphoric seeing or viewing my wears, as well as, my blogs herein.

I believe 1984 was the very first and only time I saw ring moccasin boots that had been made in Maine. Clearly, my classmate's shoes made a deep long lasting impression that penetrated my unconsciousness and has been subconsciously guiding my every move.

I have subconsciously or unconsciously been collecting things to make these shoes for 20 years and one month almost to the day. I know this much time had passed because of the receipt of when I bought my industrial walking foot sewing machine. 

Without this machine the shoes would have taken a ton of effort and time. 

Where is the synchronicity?

I began dissecting synchronicity because the date of my machine receipt purchase is my boyfriend's birthdate.

It is synchronicity that both my MOCKaSIN boots and my second John Galliano Pirate Jacket use the color orange. 

Another color synchronicity is that this scrap (bison?) leather matches the belt that I wear and that I have worn since I was 14 years old. (The colors are not identical but dark brown is dark brown).

It is synchronicity, as well that the word moccasin actually mocks a real sin. To begin to see my line of thought one would have to be able to understand that sole and soul are profoundly  interconnected.

Photo from: http://ozandya.tumblr.com

One doesn't have to be a scholar to understand that moccasins are the closest shoe to walking barefoot. The common knowledge, usage of the word and actual wearing of the shoe makes moccasins the most accessible culturally appropriated item ever. In my eyes, this is the real sin. 

Here's an article that rates Moccassins #2 culture appropriation: http://m.mic.com/articles/123995/5-items-high-fashion-loves-to-steal-from-native-americans#.F5Kes71mt

Please read synchronicity notes below for this image 

Re-Appropriation Image found viewing: http://www.takepart.com/photos/native-re-appropriation-gallery/next-gallery

Native American tribes and peoples have been fighting for their own territories. The making of the moccasin form and its adaptations seems insignificant compared to the value of land. And I understand that Natives People footwear battle is focused to preserving actual cultural coded beaded moccasins. 

But, personally after making my own moccasins I have to say Native American moccasins shoes and boots are the backbone of the shoe industry and quite possibly should be asserted as the foundation of the modern shoe. I could be over zealous in that previous statement. Nonetheless, examining men's shoe wear there seems to be a convergence of sailor shoes and native footwear also know as moccasins.

How It All Happened:

At the end of September 2015, I was driven to make my MOCKaSIN boots because I went through the summer wearing Adidas barefoot running shoes. I really wanted a pair of sheepskin lined shoes to continue my sock less movement in cold weather. As I gathered my supplies, all of this information began revealing past recollections. 

Again synchronicity arises examining the lapis ring that I recently made. The shape and color of the lapis goes perfectly with the opals bracelet I made in 2009. This is the opal bracelet accessory that was made with my second John Galliano Pirate Jacket. 

My Assessories: lapis ring, opals bracelet, as well as Beast of Burden collaborative black spinel and garnet mask ring with silver and ivory bracelet (the lapis ring, the collaborative ring and ivory bracelet were all made while I waited for supplies for the boots to arrive).

Need a reminder how this is all synchronicity?

I didn't set a plan for any of things to come together that I have listed, photographed and described. All this information is real hindsight. The materials were all gathered using different sources (five people contributed items) at different times. I recognize that mentally I am searching. However, it wasn't ever my conscious decision to dress myself as an explorer/pirate/casual fashionista but yet, I am armed to the teeth with weapons dressing myself as such. I am extremely grateful and feel deeply centered all the way into my soul's sole.

One thing that has really stood out since wearing my MOCKaSIN boots is that hummingbirds have been hanging out or I am able to actual walk up on them fluttering about. Normally, I would see a hummingbird as a blurry flash. However, hummingbirds have been flying near me and pausing long enough for me to photograph them. 

Synchronicity notes of Re-Appropriation Image:

I was eager to add the image shown above because it addresses the blatant mockery of Natives in sports. Personally, I believe there needs to be attention to the game lacrosse because it is absolute synchronicity that my classmate who wore the first pair of ring moccasin boots and I both played lacrosse. Now, here is more sports synchronicity: in November 2015 Adidas offered incentives to help eliminate usage of some Native mascots: http://espn.go.com/moresports/story/_/id/14057043/adidas-offers-help-eliminate-native-american-mascots

Personally, I am not completely comforted by this corporate move of compassion considering Adidas 2013 Jeremy Scott Native shoe and clothing line.  

Photo found using Google: 

http://www.homorazzi.com/article/jeremy-scott-for-adidas-originals-spring-summer-2013-rob-evans-indian-american-first-nations-hightops/

My only sound and sensible solution is to apply to work/design at/for Adidas. 

Be sure to view my other posts to see how I made my MOCKaSIN ring boots. 

RESOLED

Dangling My Final Finish

Test walking my MOCKaSIN boots I kept having issues with the heels corner edge adhering. My third gluing I noticed their was some chemical reaction happening with the black rubber that is actually vehicle wheel tubing. Also. I questioned the composition of the Duratek Soling. The Barge glue I am using is specific for rubber and leather. I realized closely examining my soles that only the outer edge of the rubber was being contained. It was very easy to remove the black rubber using an exacto knife slicing around the sealed outer edges.

Close up (right heel) one can see the chemical reaction the Duratec was having against the tubing.

The crepe rubber sheet was ordered from simpleshoemaking an etsy.com store. https://www.etsy.com/listing/191563576/8-x-13-piece-pf-316-thick-natural?ref=related_listings

Before adding the crepe sole I glued in another layer of cork.

I forgot to take a photo of the cork and crepe before trimming. Luckily, I had some super sharp shears because the rubber was very difficult to cut using regular scissors. Immediately I knew this new sole was the best solution. These new crepe soles are like walking on sunshine.

Tool Talk

Just wanted to add a little conversation about what tools one may or may not need. Pictured above is a piece of wood I thought I might need to help shape the toe. I actually used the wood with the sewing chisel. One can see the hammered holes look like a bird's trail. Initially, I had a brain storm at two o'clock in the morning, I ordered two tools online. The first tool from Japan (pictured left) is a sewing hole chisel that needs to be sharpened. The second tool from China (pictured right) is a straight 26mm chisel  that I got to make the strap slits. 

Here is what actually happened: The tool from China was the first to arrive. It threw me off because it was the wrong width and I forgotten that I had had the 2 am brainstorm. When I contacted the company about their error they wanted me to send it back before they would send me the right one. The tool arrived so fast it took two weeks of email communication for their contact person to yield to the idea of actually sending me what I ordered.

The chisel from Japan looked weird. I had never handled a sewing chisel prior to this endeavor. Thus, I ordered the sewing chisel set and made sure that it was from a supplier that was in the US. I was correct in sensing the chisel was off because it turns out the actual cutting edges were grounded round. Each of these tools cost around $12.00 with shipping. It was a clear $24.00 loss but only half the $50.00 that the 1"strap chisel costs. Turns out I used the smallest hole punch an exacto knife and a ruler because I over thought what was necessary.

Where Buffalo Roam: The New Adventure

Pulling my MOCKaSIN straps tightly has made me wonder if this scrap leather is actual buffalo hide. The straps are supple and have an elasticity. Also, the textured surface pushes my mind right there.

I've glued the heels three times (that picture below didn't work (I removed that bottom glue)) each time adhering less surface then the previous application. I'm hoping this third time is an actual magical charm. I'm sure more time will make a better cure.

Reflecting on these handmade MOCKaSIN boots, my mind has endless thoughts. The biggest joy is that no matter what happens to these shoes I can fix them.

Just Kicking It

Today is my first day wearing my MOCKaSIN boots outside walking around. I am really in love with this pair of shoes. I cannot describe the deep grateful personal satisfication wearing shoes one has made for one's self. After walking three blocks from my house a minor setback, I noticed the heel corners starting to peel up. I wore them a couple hours and the only problem appears to be 1/4" peeling up of the heel corners. This is the biggest contact point walking. I have cleaned sanded and re-cleaned the flaps and applied glue. To remedy this minor error, I have made a thick coat of rubber 1/4" on top of the soling sheet to create a better seal. We shall see if this is the best solution.

Wearing these compares having identical comfort to wearing my running shoes. The only difference between the two is that the runners have a flared heel that cushions the weight being placed backdown. All other impact wearing my handmade MOCKaSIN boots with either concrete or asphalt have been comfortable and provide a well cushioned stride. I'm very pleased and anxious to wear these daily.

Sticky Situation

I just want to add a little thing about working with the Barge glue. Do not use it unless you have something like this rubber cement thinner. It is probably best to wear gloves. Definitely use outside if possible. Don't try to skimp costs thinking gloves are the answer. It is mandatory to have something like this to actually clean up the bottle. The glue can string out like a glue gun.

A Closer Look

Rear seams and topstitching: one can see my industrial machine is very touchy the tension was having issues on the corner turns. Also, the left shoe has some sheepskin seeping out. I don't mind any of my imperfections.

Close-up of how I modified the toe. I am really happy how the orange thread contrasts and amplifies the color.

Tops

Sides

The sheepskin against barefoot is incredible and serves as natural antibacterial layer.

Piecing It All Together

Next is gluing the rubber to the cork. This requires cleaning using denatured alcohol and sanding before coating the rubber with any glue.

I minimized the second layer of rubber application making additional heel and toe support. My other thought is that when I have to resole there will be less area to remove for repair.

This is the Duratek soling sheet being applied as the final layer of the sole. I used about half the sheet, which was a pleasant surprise.

It was essential to attach the straps now because  I didn't want the hardware to have skin contact. 

This is before gluing and topstitching.

I trimmed the sheepskin parts back along the sew line before gluing the appropriate parts together.

The right insole is picture left in two pieces. The left insole is completely topstiched right.

All parts glued and sewn using a machine .

A closer look at the inside and outside.

The vamp or what would be understood as tongue needs slits cut. I used the smallest hole and cut a line using a ruler and an exacto.

Here is one shoe with everything done but the handsewn seams.

A closer look at the sole and topstitching... I couldn't juggle the camera and hammering the sewing holes using the chisel.

Sewing in the toe using two needles. 

Crazy how the outside gathers while the inside edge pulls straight. I enjoyed using the fake sinew.

Toes complete only back seams required.

The right one was completed first.

Both completely sewn.

A final application of glue applied to then soles exposed edge to seal and protect.

Putting Them Together

First the 1/4" thick sole piece that I traced from my Airwalk flats is sewn to the lower outer pattern piece that I made. Originally, I was going to make this rubber but I cut leather matching the shoe. (Denatured alcohol to clean leather surfaces and rubber before applying glue).

 I used 1/16" thick cork that mirrors the insole pattern piece provided. This cork is a layer on the outside concealed by stitching that is along the lower edge around the toe to the heel.

I used the orange thread as a detail topstitching for this lower seam. One can see the cork placement it appears like arch support here.

This sole cork is two 1/16" thicknesses glued together making 1/8" attached to the 1/4" thick leather Airwalk flat sole. A pausing point because I want to consider the construction of the straps. And the rubber requires some cleaning and sanding before attaching.