RESOLED

Dangling My Final Finish

Test walking my MOCKaSIN boots I kept having issues with the heels corner edge adhering. My third gluing I noticed their was some chemical reaction happening with the black rubber that is actually vehicle wheel tubing. Also. I questioned the composition of the Duratek Soling. The Barge glue I am using is specific for rubber and leather. I realized closely examining my soles that only the outer edge of the rubber was being contained. It was very easy to remove the black rubber using an exacto knife slicing around the sealed outer edges.

Close up (right heel) one can see the chemical reaction the Duratec was having against the tubing.

The crepe rubber sheet was ordered from simpleshoemaking an etsy.com store. https://www.etsy.com/listing/191563576/8-x-13-piece-pf-316-thick-natural?ref=related_listings

Before adding the crepe sole I glued in another layer of cork.

I forgot to take a photo of the cork and crepe before trimming. Luckily, I had some super sharp shears because the rubber was very difficult to cut using regular scissors. Immediately I knew this new sole was the best solution. These new crepe soles are like walking on sunshine.

Tool Talk

Just wanted to add a little conversation about what tools one may or may not need. Pictured above is a piece of wood I thought I might need to help shape the toe. I actually used the wood with the sewing chisel. One can see the hammered holes look like a bird's trail. Initially, I had a brain storm at two o'clock in the morning, I ordered two tools online. The first tool from Japan (pictured left) is a sewing hole chisel that needs to be sharpened. The second tool from China (pictured right) is a straight 26mm chisel  that I got to make the strap slits. 

Here is what actually happened: The tool from China was the first to arrive. It threw me off because it was the wrong width and I forgotten that I had had the 2 am brainstorm. When I contacted the company about their error they wanted me to send it back before they would send me the right one. The tool arrived so fast it took two weeks of email communication for their contact person to yield to the idea of actually sending me what I ordered.

The chisel from Japan looked weird. I had never handled a sewing chisel prior to this endeavor. Thus, I ordered the sewing chisel set and made sure that it was from a supplier that was in the US. I was correct in sensing the chisel was off because it turns out the actual cutting edges were grounded round. Each of these tools cost around $12.00 with shipping. It was a clear $24.00 loss but only half the $50.00 that the 1"strap chisel costs. Turns out I used the smallest hole punch an exacto knife and a ruler because I over thought what was necessary.

Where Buffalo Roam: The New Adventure

Pulling my MOCKaSIN straps tightly has made me wonder if this scrap leather is actual buffalo hide. The straps are supple and have an elasticity. Also, the textured surface pushes my mind right there.

I've glued the heels three times (that picture below didn't work (I removed that bottom glue)) each time adhering less surface then the previous application. I'm hoping this third time is an actual magical charm. I'm sure more time will make a better cure.

Reflecting on these handmade MOCKaSIN boots, my mind has endless thoughts. The biggest joy is that no matter what happens to these shoes I can fix them.

Just Kicking It

Today is my first day wearing my MOCKaSIN boots outside walking around. I am really in love with this pair of shoes. I cannot describe the deep grateful personal satisfication wearing shoes one has made for one's self. After walking three blocks from my house a minor setback, I noticed the heel corners starting to peel up. I wore them a couple hours and the only problem appears to be 1/4" peeling up of the heel corners. This is the biggest contact point walking. I have cleaned sanded and re-cleaned the flaps and applied glue. To remedy this minor error, I have made a thick coat of rubber 1/4" on top of the soling sheet to create a better seal. We shall see if this is the best solution.

Wearing these compares having identical comfort to wearing my running shoes. The only difference between the two is that the runners have a flared heel that cushions the weight being placed backdown. All other impact wearing my handmade MOCKaSIN boots with either concrete or asphalt have been comfortable and provide a well cushioned stride. I'm very pleased and anxious to wear these daily.

Sticky Situation

I just want to add a little thing about working with the Barge glue. Do not use it unless you have something like this rubber cement thinner. It is probably best to wear gloves. Definitely use outside if possible. Don't try to skimp costs thinking gloves are the answer. It is mandatory to have something like this to actually clean up the bottle. The glue can string out like a glue gun.

A Closer Look

Rear seams and topstitching: one can see my industrial machine is very touchy the tension was having issues on the corner turns. Also, the left shoe has some sheepskin seeping out. I don't mind any of my imperfections.

Close-up of how I modified the toe. I am really happy how the orange thread contrasts and amplifies the color.

Tops

Sides

The sheepskin against barefoot is incredible and serves as natural antibacterial layer.

Piecing It All Together

Next is gluing the rubber to the cork. This requires cleaning using denatured alcohol and sanding before coating the rubber with any glue.

I minimized the second layer of rubber application making additional heel and toe support. My other thought is that when I have to resole there will be less area to remove for repair.

This is the Duratek soling sheet being applied as the final layer of the sole. I used about half the sheet, which was a pleasant surprise.

It was essential to attach the straps now because  I didn't want the hardware to have skin contact. 

This is before gluing and topstitching.

I trimmed the sheepskin parts back along the sew line before gluing the appropriate parts together.

The right insole is picture left in two pieces. The left insole is completely topstiched right.

All parts glued and sewn using a machine .

A closer look at the inside and outside.

The vamp or what would be understood as tongue needs slits cut. I used the smallest hole and cut a line using a ruler and an exacto.

Here is one shoe with everything done but the handsewn seams.

A closer look at the sole and topstitching... I couldn't juggle the camera and hammering the sewing holes using the chisel.

Sewing in the toe using two needles. 

Crazy how the outside gathers while the inside edge pulls straight. I enjoyed using the fake sinew.

Toes complete only back seams required.

The right one was completed first.

Both completely sewn.

A final application of glue applied to then soles exposed edge to seal and protect.

Putting Them Together

First the 1/4" thick sole piece that I traced from my Airwalk flats is sewn to the lower outer pattern piece that I made. Originally, I was going to make this rubber but I cut leather matching the shoe. (Denatured alcohol to clean leather surfaces and rubber before applying glue).

 I used 1/16" thick cork that mirrors the insole pattern piece provided. This cork is a layer on the outside concealed by stitching that is along the lower edge around the toe to the heel.

I used the orange thread as a detail topstitching for this lower seam. One can see the cork placement it appears like arch support here.

This sole cork is two 1/16" thicknesses glued together making 1/8" attached to the 1/4" thick leather Airwalk flat sole. A pausing point because I want to consider the construction of the straps. And the rubber requires some cleaning and sanding before attaching.

The Materials

6-7oz leather and 5oz short curly sheepskin 

The base for the outer sole is 1/4" thick leather. This is not included in my pattern.  Therefore, I traced the base of my Airwalk flats.

I made an extra base sole pattern piece to attach the sole. Originally, I cut this out of rubber but it will be out the same color leather as the boot. 

This is how I will attach the 1/4" sole to the boot.

The final layer of the bottom of the sole will have this nobby rubber sheeting that is the same cream color as the sheepskin.

Here all the 7oz leather pattern pieces are cut and stacked.

All the sheepskin pattern pieces that will be the lining.

I am using cork and rubber to cushion my steps insole and outer sole.

Rubber is being used exclusively helping cushion the sole.